时尚传播观察：媒体时代是否已经结束了？

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

媒体的性别差异逐渐在淡化，这将极大地改变媒体行业，而且不局限在时尚和美妆领域。首先是平面和数字杂志，过去都是按面向男性和女性读者来区分的，近些年来有了很大的变化，　以至于它们要重新思考目标群体和营销策略。曾几何时，女同胞被认为只看女性杂志，而男士只对男士健康杂志和绅士季刊感兴趣，但是越来越多的读者不再以性别而是以自己的兴趣来标榜自己。是否可以说按性别来划分媒体的时代已经结束了？很多专家指出性别化的媒体不再是可行的商业模式，出版物也要顺应时代的变化来留住自己的受众。

Gendered media or rather the demise of it, is making headlines world over, no more less than in the fashion and beauty industry. For a start, print and digital magazines that were once boxed into female or male readers only have shifted widely in recent years, so much so they are having to rethink their entire audience and marketing strategies. While in the past women have been drawn to stereotypical women's magazines and men towards the likes of mens health and GQ, more and more, readers feel less defined by their genders and more by their interests. Is it possible we are finished with the era of gendered media? Many experts say gendered media is no longer a viable business model and that publications will need to change with the times if they want to continue having an audience at all.

角色的变化

Changing Roles

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

出现上述现象的原因之一在于工作和家庭中角色分工的变化。越来越多的男性留在家里照看小孩，也就是说他们的兴趣也变成了通常认为是女性喜欢的那些东西，比如做饭，清洁，收拾房间等等。同样地，越来越多的女性开始健身塑形，同时也对在工作中有效领导团队有了更多的兴趣，而这两个主题过去通常是出现在男性杂志中的，现在老派的女性时尚杂志中却屡见不鲜。去思考通过目标群体的兴趣而不是简单地通过性别来划分目标受众，是现在出版物成功的基本因素。

One of the contributing factors to this phenomenon has a lot to do with the shift and change in roles in both the workplace and at home. More men than ever are staying at home to look after the kids, meaning their interests are shifting towards traditionally female interests such as cooking, cleaning and creating an organized home space. Similarly, more women than ever are participating in muscle sports like body building and more interested in reading about how to lead their team at work efficiently, two topics more likely to be covered in traditional mens magazines than the rag mags of the old fashioned female market. This is fundamental for publications to consider in these times and why media is and should be leaning towards grouping their audience with common interests instead of gender in order to continue being successful.

性取向

Sexual Orientation

另一个终结性别化媒体的原因是这个时代对不同性取向的群体越来越包容。过去女性杂志写男人必须通过女性视角，反过来也是。这样做的问题在于忽略了男性和女性中还有其他取向的群体。当然了，男同可以读女性杂志，可能会有一些相通的地方，可是内容毕竟不是写给他们的，更多的是无法引起他们共鸣的内容。当然一本杂志也无法为各种各样性取向的群体服务，这需要很多杂志和内容创造人一起努力。一些生活方式出版物已经开始尝试吸引有特定兴趣爱好的读者群体，而不是简单地分为男性或女性读者，这其实就需要供稿人就各种不同的性别关系来创造内容。

Another reason for the potential end to gendered media is the embracing of various sexual orientation. Traditionally, publications aimed at women would write from a female perspective about men and vice versa. The problem with this is it leaves out huge demographics of women who want to be able to relate to their female to female relationship and males who want to relate to their male to male relationship. Of course, males in a homosexual relationship can read women aimed magazines and gleam some insight however it's obvious it isn't written for them and the point of view is often out of place to make it truly relatable. Of course, it's not so easy to market a magazine to every sexual orientation without having a wide range of media and writers. Some lifestyle publications who are attempting to appeal to readers interests rather than their gender, require writers to only make points that apply to every kind of relationship.

粉碎性别成见

Shattering Gender Stereotypes

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

很多品牌和企业都在不遗余力打碎性别成见，而且广受好评。戛纳金狮创意节（Cannes Lions Festival）专门为挑战性别教条广告设立了一个奖。例如之前获奖的英格兰体育局（Sport England）的广告This Girl Can就是最好的例子。通常我们看到的平面或者体育广告，经常都是一个肌肉健硕的男性或者女性，标准的身材，健康的肤色上闪耀着精致的汗珠，广告里的人总是活力无限，穿着好看的紧身运动服。然而这个广告没有走这种老路，呈现了一个毫无距离感的，普通的年纪，身材和长相的女孩，正在费劲地骑自行车，她的金色卷发有些杂乱，戴着一个简单的头盔，她的衣服很随意，不是知名品牌的产品，就像是是从衣橱里随便挑的一件。这和一般的体育广告的风格完全不一样，那些广告里头发一定是收拾得一丝不苟，不受天气和汗水的影响，因为他们有足够的钱来搭配大牌运动服和配饰。这个广告还加了一行简单有力的文字：我虽然慢，可是已经领先那些躺在沙发上的人了。

Many brands and companies are making great strides in terms of attempting to shatter gender stereotypes and being praised widely for it. So much so that the Cannes Lions Festival have created an award for best advertising campaigns that challenge gender norms. We only have to look to previous winner Sport England's This Girl Can campaign for a perfect example. When we think of a sporting ad, be it for print or television, more often than not they feature a muscle clad male or female, their skin and taught, toned physique, glistening with delicately crafted sweat. They rarely look uncomfortable, like they are pushing themselves in anyway, the models are always attractive and dressed perfectly in figure enhancing gym wear. Taking a completely different approach, the This Girl Can campaign bucks all stereotypes, showing a more relatable, average aged, sized and looking person, battling on a bicycle. Her hair is a mop of curly blonde being weighed down by her basic helmet and her clothes simply random, unbranded pieces that look pulled from the closet in a rush. This is in such stark contrast to the usual styling used in sports ads, where suitable coiffed and polished hair isn't affected by the weather or sweat and they have all the money in the world to spend on co-ordinating designer gym wear and branded accessories. The advertisement is made even more complete by the strap line, “I'm slow but I'm lapping everyone on the couch.”

结局唱响了

The Beginning Of The End

图片来源：上海大学-巴黎国际时装艺术学院

正如专家所指出的，性别化的媒体已经行不通了。我们正处在性别化媒体消亡的初始阶段，　在弄清楚面向大众的非性别化媒体到底是什么样子之前，还有很长的一段路要走，毕竟在此之前以性别为出发点的媒体太多了，要经过一段漫长的时间我们才能打破这些成见，才能看到宣传和出版物采用非性别化的立场，而且我们对此习以为常。当然不止那些大企业需要做出改变，我们每个人在日常生活中都会不自觉地有性别的成见，毕竟这种观念在我们中间已经根深蒂固了。例如，如果我们说一个人好管事，我们就自动想到一个女性形象。为什么？因为我们都认为只有女性是爱管事的，同样性格的男性，我们则觉得他能干，有领导气质，而且意志强大。

While we have to agree with the experts, gendered media is no longer a viable business model, we're definitely at the beginning of the end and we have a long way to go before we figure out exactly what non gendered media looks like for the masses. Simply, so much gendered media has come before it that it will take a significant amount of time to break down those stereotypes and for us to see an advertisement or publication who is using non gendered media and to not feel we need to praise or remark on it, it's so much a part of our normal. Of course, it's not just big companies that need to make changes, after all, in our everyday life we make gender stereotypes all the time without even realizing, it's so ingrained into our psyche. For example, when we think of a bossy person, our brains immediately picture a woman, why? Only women are described as bossy, men in the same strain are described as commanding or dominant or even strong willed.

要进入到一个没有性别差异的媒体时代，需要我们生活中各个方面的努力，例如企业如何宣传产品，我们如何评价他人，这条路还很长，现在我们也才开了个头。

To enter into a true era where gendered media doesn't exist, it takes work from all aspects of life, from how companies portray and advertise their products, to how we speak about each other. There's a long way to go but we have definitely started on the journey.

上海大学巴黎国际时装艺术学院（Shanghai University - MOD'ART International），成立于2003年，被外界誉为”上海时装界的黄埔军校“，是国内第一个在上海创办的中法合作时装设计学院，国内率先引进法国奢侈品营销与管理专业和时尚传播专业。受到中国服装协会、中国服装设计师协会、中国国际贸易促进会纺织行业分会等专业社会团体的支持。