书藏古今，港通天下。宁波是一座向海而生，因港而兴的城市。为了向世界讲好宁波故事，宁波发布推出“双语宁波”栏目，将围绕历史、地理、人文、经济等多个方面聚焦“世界的宁波，宁波的世界”。
作为海上丝绸之路的起点城市之一，宁波自古就和世界各地往来密切。今天，带大家换个视角，看看外国档案里的宁波是什么样子。
180多年前的玩转东钱湖攻略，写了什么？
What was Written in the Travel Guide to Dongqian Lake Over 180 Years Ago?
东钱湖，宁波东南部的一个旅游休闲湖泊。因与宁波市中心距离适中，被当作城市的“后花园”。郭沫若曾用“西子风韵，太湖气魄”赞美它，使其声名远播。
Dongqian Lake, nestled in the southeastern corner of Ningbo, stands as a popular destination for leisure and tourism. Its convenient proximity to Ningbo’s city center has earned it the title of the city’s “backyard”. Renowned Chinese scholar and poet Guo Moruo (1892-1978) once praised its perfect blending of “the grace of West Lake” with “the grandeur of Taihu Lake”, which has further contributed to its fame.
慕雅德手绘陶公山钢笔画。A sketch of Dongqian Lake by Arthur Evans Moule.
这里，是宁波旧影一个著名的取景点。2020年，宁波文史研究者水银出过专著《人杰地灵：东钱湖旧影史话》，对中外人士镜头下的东钱湖进行过系统整理，所统计的照片蔚为大观。
Dongqian Lake is a sought-after filming location for historical images of Ningbo. In 2020, local historian Shui Yin published People and Place: The History of Dongqian Lake in Old Photos, a book systematically cataloged both domestic and foreign photographs of the lake, creating a vast visual archive.
相比浩如烟海的图片，早期外籍友人关于东钱湖的文字记载反而比较有限，主要集中在美魏茶、戴德生、慕雅德、李希霍芬等少数几个人身上。究其原因，主要还是当时的人们更多将东钱湖当作前往天童、育王的交通站，而非一个专门的旅游景点而加以观察。
Despite the wealth of visual records, early Western accounts of Dongqian Lake are surprisingly scarce, with only a handful of notable figures such as William C. Milne (1815-1863), James Hudson Taylor (1832-1905), Arthur Evans Moule (1836-1918), and Ferdinand von Richthofen (1833-1905) leaving behind written impressions. Some of these individuals offered valuable glimpses into the lake’s past. The relative dearth of written accounts can be attributed to the fact that, during this period, Dongqian Lake was often viewed as a mere stopover en route to more prominent destinations like Tiantong Temple or the Temple of King Ashoka, rather than a standalone tourist attraction worthy of extended exploration.
美魏茶的画像。A portrait of William C. Milne.
不过，有美魏茶这个“话痨”在，我们还是能够读到一份细节充分的、来自约180年前的“玩转东钱湖攻略”。
Still, thanks to William C. Milne - an admirable storyteller, we can enjoy a detailed travel guide to Dongqian Lake from 181 years ago.
莫枝堰翻坝：乐此不疲的游玩体验
Muh-che-yen Dam: An Exciting Travel Experience
早期外国影像中，被拍摄最多的东钱湖景点，可能出乎很多人的意料——莫枝堰。
Surprisingly, the most photographed site around Dongqian Lake in early foreign photos is Muh-che-yen Dam (currently known as Mozhi Dam).
杜德维拍摄的莫枝堰照片。A photo of "Muh-che-yen Dam" by Edward Bangs Drew.
据水银所见，1949年以前的东钱湖旧影，莫枝堰的照片既是最多的，也是最早的。比如现存包腊相册中归于华生名下的2张，杜德维相册中的2张，拍摄时间均被认为是1869至1871年间。
Photos of this dam before 1949, according to Shui Yin, are both the most plentiful and the earliest. Among these are two photos attributed to Edward Charles Macintosh Bowra (1841-1874) and two others to Edward Bangs Drew (1843-1924), all taken approximately between 1869 and 1871.
除此之外，还有1889至1891年间在浙海关税务司工作的法国人雷乐石的照片、英国女性旅行家兼摄影师伊莎贝拉摄于1895年的照片、1903年至1905年左右法国摄影师勒内·蒂洛特拍摄的一系列照片，以及1938年之前英国博物学家苏柯仁收藏的照片，甚至包括新近在剑桥大学考古与人类学博物馆网站发现的几张，凡此种种，不一而足。
The collection of Shui Yin also includes several photos taken by the Frenchman Louis Rocher (1815-1900) from 1889-1891 while he worked for The Chinese Maritime Customs Service, images from Isabella Bird (1831-1904; an Englishwoman traveler and photographer), and a batch of photos from around 1903 by the French photographer René Tillot (1873-19xx). Additional photos taken before 1938 include those from naturalist Arthur de Carle Sowerby’s (1885-1954) collection at the Cambridge Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology.
莫枝堰，始筑于五代，兼有蓄湖、溢洪功能。作为交通设施的过船坝，可分为东、西两堰。老照片中的“船翻坝”照片拍摄的基本上都是东堰，因东堰两侧有绞盘车，也称“车堰”。
Muh-che-yen Dam, initially built during the Five Dynasties period (907-979), served both as a flood-control barrier and a navigational structure. The dam was divided into two sections: east and west. The majority of vintage photographs depicting the iconic “boat crossing the dam” scene were captured at the east section. This area, known as “Che Yan” or the “Winch Dam”, was equipped with winches on both sides, which allowed boats to be raised or lowered across the dam.
过去人从宁波到东钱湖，一般走鄞东中塘河，到了莫枝，要么雇小船入湖，要么沿湖走陆路。对域外游客来说，翻船过坝既是新奇的旅游项目，也是难得一见的场景，一般不会错过。
In the past, travelers from Ningbo to Dongqian Lake typically took the Zhongtang River in eastern Yin County. Upon reaching Muh-che-yen (currently known as Mozhi), they would either hire a small boat to enter the lake or continue by land along the lakeshore. For foreign visitors, boats crossing over the dam was a novel and rare sight, often considered a must-see.
《杜德维的相册》里的莫枝堰。A photo of “boat crossing the dam” by Edward Bangs Drew.
勒内·蒂洛特拍摄的“船翻坝”。A photo of "boat crossing the dam" by René Tillot.
1843年5月前来游湖的英国传教士美魏茶（我们曾在讲述天封塔时提到过他，以下引文均出自他写的《宁波七月记》），就详细记录过这一过程：
Milne, an English missionary who visited the lake in May 1843, detailed the dam-crossing process in his article, Seven Months’ Residence at Ningpo:
“我们到达了莫枝堰Muh-che-yen村（1843年5月24日），在那里我们找到了东钱湖东北入口的船闸。村庄本身看起来很干净，人们举止非常有礼貌。在安排将我们的船吊过水闸时，我们混在好奇的人群中。这一小时最有趣的场景是将船拖上来。大坝上有两座斜面，横跨湖的出口：一面用于将船从下面的运河吊到上面的水池，另一座用于将船从上面的水池下放到下面的运河。这些斜面是用细石板铺成的。”
“At length we reached the village Muh-che-yen [on May 24th, 1843], where we found the lock or sluice that protects the north-east entrance into the Tung-tseen lake [currently known as Dongqian Lake]. The village itself looked clean, and the people behaved with wonderful decorum. While arrangements were making to hoist our boats over the sluice, we mixed with the curious crowds, and walked about the village and its neighbourhood. The most interesting scene of the hour was the hauling up of the boats. There were two inclined planes upon the dam, extending across the outlet of the lake: one for up-heaving boats from the canal below to the basin above, and the other for launching from the basin above down into the canal below.”
这一点，对照《人杰地灵：东钱湖旧影史话》里的老照片可以看得很清楚。
The scene is clearly visible in the above-mentioned old photos.
“驳船的吊起由一根粗绳子完成，粗绳子将船尾围住，两端都固定在绞盘上。绞盘笨重，由船闸管理员雇佣的几个人一起启动。通过操作两台绞盘（一台在水闸的这一侧，另一台在水闸的另一侧），船被慢慢地吊到上面，然后从那里下放到水池里。在此过程中，我们必须把每一件家具和行李都绑好，并保持警惕。将船从上湖放入下湖运河时，操作很简单，就是把船转一圈，逐渐把它从平面上旋进下面的水道。”
“The upheaving of the barge was effected by a thick rope, which embraced the boat astern, and was at both ends secured to a windlass. The windlasses, clumsy though they were, were set in motion by a number of men hired by the lock-keeper. By working the two windlasses, the one on this and the other on that side of the sluice, the boat was slowly raised to the top, whence it was launched into the basin. During the process, we had to lash every piece of furniture and baggage to prevent damage to our persons and our property; and holding on as tightly as we could ... In the launching of boats from the upper lake into the canal beneath the operation was simply to work the boat round and round gradually screwing it down the plane into the channel below.”
当天夜幕降临前，美魏茶一行把船停在了殷家湾。
Before the shades of evening gathered, they anchored by a village called “Ying-kia-wan”.
殷湾远眺，出自米利肯（Millican）相册，1917年摄，收录于《人杰地灵：东钱湖旧影史话》。
A photo of “Ying-kia-wan” in 1917 by Millican.
韩岭与茶山
Hanling Village and Tea Hills
美魏茶也是目前所见最早一位写东钱湖游记的西方人士。
Milne is also the earliest Westerner known to write a travelogue about Dongqian Lake.
他所写的《宁波七月记》，先是连载于在华出版的西文刊物《中国丛报》，后又见于个人著作《在华生活》。作为一个极其擅长表达的人，他将在甬7个月的短暂生活，记录得可以说事无巨细。
His article series Seven Months’ Residence at Ningpo was initially serialized in The Chinese Repository and later included in his book, Life in China. As a highly articulate writer, he left a detailed record of his seven-month stay in Ningbo.
城市风貌、名胜古迹、风俗物产、宗教信仰、民政民生、政治局势、军事训练、科举制度，包括与时任宁波知府舒恭受的交往、宁波宅第、宗祠、茶馆品茗、戏场看戏、浴堂泡澡、春节习俗等细节，都在书中有体现，书里甚至还夹着一张或出自其本人之手的“世界上最早的宁波旅游地图”。只是他的书至今未见中译本，是一件小小的憾事。
Milne’s book presents a rich tapestry of Ningbo’s cityscape, historical landmarks, local traditions, religious practices, civic affairs, political atmosphere, military drills, and the imperial examination system. It also offers a glimpse into his interactions with Ningbo’s then-prefect, Shu Gongshou, as well as the traditional architecture of Ningbo residences, ancestral halls, tea houses, theaters, bathhouses, and the vibrant customs surrounding the New Year celebrations. Notably, the book features what is possibly the world’s earliest tourism map of Ningbo, which may have been illustrated by Milne himself. Regrettably, his book remains untranslated into Chinese.
在殷家湾住过一夜后，美魏茶一行就离开了这个停泊地，坐船前往韩岭。当时是旱季，湖水很浅。“水深往往只有两英尺，船有时会牢牢地陷在泥里，船夫们不得不经常跳进水里把船推开，但他们很不情愿这么做……随着湖水越来越深，我们前进得更加顺利，最后，一阵微风吹来，帮了我们一把……”
After spending a night at “Ying-kia-wan”, Milne’s team left their anchorage and took a boat to Hanling. It was the dry season, so the lake was shallow. “Extreme difficulty arose from the shallowness of the water, which in consequence of the prevailing drought, was often only two feet deep; the boat occasionally stuck fast in the mud, so that the boatmen had frequently to jump into the water to shove it off, a task which they performed rather reluctantly. As the lake deepened, we proceeded with more facility. At last, a fine breeze sprung up to our assistance ...”
在东钱湖，美魏茶有一个很深的感受，那就是村民看到他们一般都很友好。“我们受到的礼遇始终如一，妇女们蜂拥而至，看我们的脸，检查我们的衣服，观察我们的一举一动。人们没有躲开我们，而是护送我们离开他们的村庄，用亲切友好的话语与我们交谈。”
Throughout his visit to Donqian Lake, Milne was deeply impressed by the warm hospitality of the villagers. “The civility with which we were received was invariable ... The women flocked around to see our faces, examine our clothes, and watch our movements. Instead of flying from us as from hurtful beasts, the people escorted us out of their villages and conversed with us in words kind and friendly.”
韩岭裴君庙（仇柏年辨认），收录于《人杰地灵：东钱湖旧影史话》。
A photo of the local temple at Hanling by René Tillot.
到韩岭时，美魏茶也受到了热诚的欢迎。“其中一些人涉水至腰部，或爬上树，只为看一眼陌生人。肯尼迪船长和我去了主庙（或为韩岭裴君庙），在那里，我们受到了村民的款待，送来茶、糕点和糖果。从这里我们走进了村庄，那里人头攒动，熙熙攘攘。”
Upon reaching the Hanling village, Milne received warm welcomes from a multitude of spectators, “some of whom waded up to their waists, or mounted the trees, to catch a glimpse of the strangers. Captain Kennedy and myself went to the principal temple, where we were entertained with tea, cakes, and sweetmeats, sent by the principal inhabitants, each presenting a separate tray. From this we walked into the village, a closely packed and busy place.”
韩岭是东钱湖重要的集镇，但它的老照片很少。据水银了解，迄今仅见过一张晚清韩岭旧影，由法国摄影师勒内·蒂洛特摄于1905年前，辨认出它的是仇柏年，他认出照片拍的就是韩岭裴君庙。据载，该庙建于明清之交，规模占湖畔众庙之首，可惜1942年毁于日寇之手。今天该地块为韩岭花间堂。
Despite its significance as a town situated by Dongqian Lake, Hanling is surprisingly underrepresented in old photographs. According to Shui Yin, the only known image of Hanling from the late Qing Dynasty was taken by French photographer René Tillot before 1905. It was identified by Qiu Bainian, who recognized the location as Hanling’s Pei Jun Temple. Constructed during the transition from the Ming to the Qing dynasty, this temple was once the largest among those lining the lake. Tragically, it was destroyed by Japanese forces in 1942. Today, the site is home to the Blossom Hill Hanling.
傍晚时分，美魏茶一行回到船上，登上了一座“茶山”。据称，“这座山高耸于城镇之上，种满了灌木，层层叠叠，十分美丽”，不知道是不是今天的福泉山。
In the evening, Milne’s team returned to the boat and ascended a “tea-hill that overhung the town and was beautifully planted with the shrub, in terraces rising one above another”. This might be present-day Fuquan Mountain.
徒步百步尖
Hiking the “Peak of Pihpoo”
次日，兴致很好的美魏茶还在东钱湖完成了一场徒步，地点在百步尖。
The following day, Milne, still full of enthusiasm, completed a hike at the “Peak of Pihpoo” (aka. Centipede Peak; currently known as Bai-bu-jian).
“百步耸翠”位于东钱湖的西南面，旧为“钱湖十景”之一，近年开发成亭溪岭古道，游人络绎。
The “Peak of Pihpoo” lies on the southwestern shore of Dongqian Lake and was once celebrated as one of the top ten scenic views of the Dongqian Lake area. In recent years, this picturesque spot has been transformed into the popular Tingxiling Ancient Road.
“我们来此的目的是攀登‘百步尖’，又称‘蜈蚣峰’，它看上去像一根尖针，直冲云霄。这个小村庄看上去并不起眼，但位置却十分优美。我们一上岸，村长就找了两个小伙子给我们当向导。我们很快发现了几条通往山顶的小路。右边是一条很好的路，树荫遮蔽，很舒服，但这条路似乎很曲折，我们希望在山中心附近能找到另一条路。所以我们选择了一条中间路线，结果这条路虽然崎岖不平，人迹罕至，但却非常浪漫。攀登过程很辛苦。到达山顶后，我们把它命名为‘发现峰’，因为我们是第一个踏上这个高度的英国人。”
“Our object in visiting this spot was to ascend the Peak of Pihpoo, or ‘Centipede Peak,’ which looked like a sharp needle shooting up into the very clouds. The hamlet looked insignificant, but prettily situated. As soon as we landed, the headman of the village obtained us the services of two lads to act as guides. We soon discovered several paths leading to the summit of the mountain. To the right a good road struck off, comfortably shaded by trees; but as it seemed circuitous and we hoped another might be found nearer the centre of the mountain, we took a middle course, which turned out to be very romantic, though rough and little frequented. The ascent was toilsome. On reaching the summit, we named it ‘Discovery Peak,’ being the first Englishmen that had trod that height.”
美魏茶形容说：“这座山峰狭窄、贫瘠、多岩石，山腰上到处种着树龄不长的冷杉。从这里望去，视野开阔，令人心旷神怡。整个宁波，连同它的山脉、大城镇、众多村庄和水源充足的平原，都在我们的脚下……”
Milne further wrote: “The peak was narrow, barren, and rocky, and its sides, here and there, planted with young firs. The prospect from it was extensive and inspiriting. The entire department of Ningpo, with its mountain boundaries, large towns, numerous villages, and well-watered plains, lay at our feet ...”
下山前，他们还决定在山峰上立一座“纪念碑”，以纪念这一天的“壮举”——“我们收集了一堆石头，经过艰苦的努力，堆成了一堆，在石头中间放了一个瓶子，里面装着我们成就的书面记录，还有我们的签名和攀登‘发现峰’的日期（1843年5月26日）。”
Before descending, they determined to erect a monument on the peak in commemoration of “the feat of the day”. “We collected heaps of stones, and, by dint of hard work, raised a pile, in the heart of which we lodged a bottle containing a written record of our achievement, with our autographs, dated on ‘Discovery Peak.’ [May 26, 1842]”
他们在下山时走得很快，搭船离开东钱湖的速度也很快。美魏茶说，他们从各个地方对湖面进行了测量：
Their descent was rapid, and their sail across the lake equally so. As Milne accounted, they had taken a survey of the lake from various points.
“根据当地人的估计，湖的周长约为二十二英里。据说它的最大深度只有六英尺，底部全是蓝色的粘土。它共有六个出口，每个出口都有一条通往宁波市的清澈水道。湖边还有七十二个村庄，土地肥沃，人口众多。从我们看到的无数渔船和商船来回穿梭来看，湖上的贸易一定非常重要。”
“... ascertained from native estimates that its circumference was about twenty-two miles. Its greatest depth was said to be only six feet, and the bottom all lined with a bluish clay. It had altogether six outlets, from each of which there was an open and clear water-passage to the city of Ningpo. There were likewise seventy-two villages which encompassed the lake, all fertile and populous. From the numerous fishing and trading boats we saw plying about, there must be a very important traffic upon the waters of the lake.”
其他旧影与记载
Other Historical Photos and Records
在美魏茶之后，为东钱湖留下文字描写的还有一些人。
In addition to Milne, several others also documented their impressions of Dongqian Lake.
比如英国传教士戴德生，他于1855年10月到宁波传教，1858年1月20日在英国驻宁波领事馆，与城内祝都桥女校的帮校玛丽亚结婚。婚后三个月内，他们曾住在东钱湖岸边“热闹的小镇”莫枝堰。
One of them was British missionary James Hudson Taylor, who arrived in the city in October 1855. On January 20, 1858, he married Maria, a staff member at the Chongde Girls’ School built at Zhudu Bridge, at the British consulate in Ningbo. The newlyweds spent part of their honeymoon in Dongqian Lake’s bustling lakeside town, Muh-che-yen.
据戴德生之子戴义存夫妇合著、1911年出版的《戴德生》一书记载，当时戴德生夫妇在那里欢度蜜月，“爱情与欢乐，伴随着这对新人，令他们心旷神怡”。可是，突如其来的伤寒病，让夫妻俩不得不回到条件更好的城中居住，莫枝堰那边只能隔三差五去一趟。
According to Hudson Taylor in Early Years, a book published in 1911 by Taylor’s son and daughter-in-law, the couple’s stay at Muh-che-yen was marked mainly by interactions with local fishermen. It was a time of great joy and tranquility for the young couple, who found themselves surrounded by love and happiness that lifted their spirits. However, a sudden typhoid outbreak forced them to relocate to the city for better living conditions, and only visit Muh-che-yen occasionally.
1868年11月，德国地理学家李希霍芬也到过东钱湖，还有我们前文介绍过的、在甬驻留二十多年的慕雅德。
In November 1868, German geographer Ferdinand von Richthofen also visited Dongqian Lake, as did Arthur Evans Moule, who had lived in Ningbo for over twenty years.
慕雅德的书里，收录有眺望东钱湖岳鄂王庙的照片，以及以莫枝堰、岳鄂王庙照片为蓝本制作的铜版画，包括慕雅德自己画的陶公山钢笔画。
Moule included photos of the Yue Fei Temple at Dongqian Lake in his book, along with copper engravings based on photos of Muh-che-yen Dam and Yue Fei Temple, as well as a pen drawing he made of Mt. Taogong.
慕雅德为此写过一段图片说明：“图中所示的东钱湖东岸距宁波约十二英里，与宁波之间有运河相连，是大量海上渔民的避风港和改装船只的地方。（船只）由绞盘从河流拖入运河，再从运河拖入湖中，经过倾斜的堤坝（疑似即莫枝堰）。人口稠密的城镇码头的泥堤上种植杨柳，这张图的左边就是这个小镇，拥挤的住所聚集在山脚下，小小的港口被成排的柳树包围着。”
As Moule described, one of his images showed the eastern shore of Dongqian Lake, about twelve miles from Ningbo, connected by a canal that serves as a harbor and refit area for many sea fishermen. Boats are winched up from the river into the canal and then into the lake, passing through a sloped embankment, likely Muh-che-yen Dam. Poplar trees line the mud dike of the town’s busy pier, with packed housing at the mountain’s base, and a small port encircled by rows of willow trees.
据水银统计，还有许多外籍摄影师也曾将镜头对准东钱湖。比如20世纪初，戴维斯拍摄过蚌壳山与殷湾；1912年左右，英国风光摄影大师唐纳德·曼尼拍过岳鄂王庙；米利肯相册中收录了“殷湾远眺”，约拍摄于1917年；此外，月波寺、梅湖、前堰头村、上虹桥、湖里塘、梨花山一带也有很多旧影存世，不过因梅湖填没，有些景象今天变化不小。大家想要了解更多相关信息，也不妨从水银的书中寻找线索。
Many other foreign photographers, as Shui Yin reveals, also set their lenses on Dongqian Lake. In the early 20th century, Davies captured stunning images of Bangke Mountain and Yinwan Bay; around 1912, renowned British landscape photographer Donald Mennie photographed Yue Fei Temple. Millican’s album contains a 1917 distant view of Yinwan, while other old photos of locations such as Yuebo Temple, Mei Lake, Qianyantou Village, Shanghong Bridge, Huli Pond, and Lihua Mountain still exist. However, some of these sites, such as Mei Lake, have changed considerably since then due to land reclamation. For those interested in further information, Shui Yin’s book may offer a wealth of insight.
来源：宁波发布